Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Joo-up knea Cambodia, Kamusta Philippines, & Surviving/Thriving Pt. 3

Warning: This is a long one and has multiple parts. You are in no way committed to reading the entire post but since you've already gotten this far, you might as well :)

Well, I've officially left Cambodia. Of course, the 4 days I spent in Siem Reap didn't exactly feel like Cambodia anyways. Yes, the language and food and traffic were the same but it wasn't the city and the places and the people I was used to. Siem Reap was definitely a different experience than Phnom Penh, for a number of reasons. First of all, I was a tourist instead of a volunteer. I stayed in a hostel with lots of other White people versus living with a family on the outskirts of town. I had my map on hand at all times and consulted it enough in the first 2 days to cause a few holes to form in the creases. I spent more time sightseeing and going to performances and talking with other foreigners than taking in the simple pleasures of Cambodian life to which I've gotten so accustomed. The other big difference: I was traveling alone for the first time in 4 months. I was excited about some Risa time- living each day by my own agenda (well, God's of course but you know what I mean). I'm not usually one for being by myself as most of you know, but after 4 months of being with people nonstop even the most extroverted can use a little quiet time. Ha! That only lasted a couple hours at a time. In the span of 4 days, I made two American friends at the bus station (Nate and Nathan), a Cambodian (Lim) and an Italian (Peter) on the bus, a French girl at my hostel (Leslie), a Cambodian waiter (Pen), two Americans (Jen and Joan) at Angkor Wat, an Australian (Cheryl) and two more Americans (Jess and Andrew) at a cooking class, an Australian (Dane) who had been to Zambia and commented on my Zambia soccer jersey, and a Filipino couple at the airport. My definition of "friend" may be loose by your standards but I can tell you what each of these people is doing in Cambodia, how long they have been here, what they do back home, and a variety of other facts about each. Friends? I think so. So much for solitude. Let's be honest, I wouldn't have it any other way.
The short vacation was nice. Quick recap (the pictures I eventually post on Facebook will probably do a much better describing my time in Siem Reap better than my words can.)
Friday (my last day in Phnom Penh): finished up final things at work until 3 pm when I was kidnapped (not exactly but kind of) by my co-workers. They wanted to "take me out" so we went to the mall and had a feast of pizza, wings, and breadsticks to celebrate the past 2 months and to say goodbyes. I had made each of them a friendship bracelet- thanks for the practice Camp Oak Hill. The directors had made me a certificate, my co-workers all signed a card, and Daden got me a krama (Cambodian scarf). Then "Band-aid goodbyes"- quick and painless as possible- and I went to meet some other volunteers for a final dinner (which turned into ice cream).
Saturday: I said final goodbyes to my host family and Michael (the Australian volunteer living there too). Seven hour bus ride to Siem Reap. Street food for dinner (75 cents for a full meal) and the Beatocello concert- a free (donation-encouraged) cello concert put on by Beat Richner, the founder of Kantha Bopha Children's Hostpital, every Saturday night.
Sunday: Explored town, found a map, rented a bicycle and visited Pre-Rup (a temple) for sunset. Unfortunately, it was cloudy so it was anti-climatic but leaving early meant I got back in time to go to the Apsara Dance Performance (traditional Cambodian dancing) at this one restaurant called Temple. I finally tried Amok- a very Cambodian dish made primarily from cauliflower and sauce with all sorts of other stuff, served in a banana leaf bowl.
Monday: Headed to the temples at 5:20 am on my bike to catch sunrise. I wanted to go to a less popular temple but I underestimated the distance from my hostel to the temple route and as it inched closer to 6:10 (predicted sunrise time), I had to "settle" for watching the sun come up at Angkor Wat. Rough life, right? It was absolutely beautiful and a great way to start a day visiting ancient ruins. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves as far as my visits to all of the temples are concerned. I'll just add that 1. biking the 29 km, aka 18 miles, in 90 degree weather is quite a challenge. 2. I don't know that I've ever seen so many people from so many countries speaking so many languages in such close proximity in my life. 3. It was probably better that I was alone because it would have been very difficult to suppress the urge to play hide-and-seek had I had someone that would encourage such behavior (namely Jeff Basey). That evening, I treated myself to some hard-earned ice cream and got some more street food then called it an early night.
Tuesday: Packed and check out of my hostel. Biked around town, went to the market. Cooking class, which was probably my favorite part of the trip to Siem Reap. I learned to cook fresh spring rolls (all of those summers of practice making wraps at Subways made me look like a pro!), Cambodian curry, and this banana dessert. So fun! Eventually, I headed to the airport with Teach (my hostel's tuk-tuk driver), dealt with all of the airport stuff and arrived in Manila at 3:23 am Wednesday morning.

When I got here, I was greeted by Rosario who has been a family friend since her daughter, Raisa, and I were 5 and 3 months old respectively. Yes, we are Raisa and Risa. Yes, it's been known to cause some confusion. It's so nice to finally be with family after so long. Rosario has planned out tons of fun and relaxing things to do. Just to give you a little taste, day one consisted of sleeping in in an air-conditioned room, cereal for breakfast (which was really at lunch time), a hot shower, a massage by a lady who comes to their condo, tacos for dinner (with homemade tortillas), a walk around town with a stop to get bubble tea, and lounging on the big comfy sofa watching television. Life doesn't get much better than this! Especially in 2.5 days when Mama and Daddio walk off a plane to me!!!


TALKING THE TALK: Surviving and Thriving Part Three
I was only able to learn a little of Khmer, it is a very difficult language and even uses a different alphabet. One of the most fun things was to say one of the few phrases I knew to a Cambodian and watch their face light up because they didn't expect the White girl to know any of their language. Sometimes they overestimated me and started to say all sorts of things that I couldn't understand. That's when the charades came out and we navigated the language barrier in broken English, pointing, and facial expressions.

Hello: sua s'dei
Goodbye: leah sun howie
Have a nice day: reek re-ay tenai de-awe
Good morning: a-ruhn sua s'dei
Good night: ree-uh try sua s'dei
Tonight, have sweet dreams: you-up-mee soh-bun-duh-ho
How much does it cost?: tuh-lei bon-mahn
I miss you: nhom nek nak
Thank you: aw kuhn
See you tomorrow: joo-up knea s'ei
eat: nyum
noodles: mee
rice: bye
market: phsar
sister/brother/affectionate way to refer to someone: bong
friend: meut
work: gaa-ngee-a
mango: swy-ky-wo-miet
grandma: maht jyay
finished: jop
1, 2, 3, 4, 5: muay, pii, bye, bu-en, pram
6, 7, 8, 9: pram muay, pram pii, pram bye, pram bu-en
10, 11, 12...: dop, dop muy, dop pii...

 That's all I can recall for now. Sorry for a poor attempt at spelling the words phonetically. Cambodians' mouths and throats make sounds that mine is incapable of making and therefore difficult to spell. Also just a little taste of written Khmer...
 





Friday, March 15, 2013

It's not goodbye yet.

I know my time in Cambodia isn't actually over but I leave Phnom Penh (aka "home" for the past 8 weeks) to head to Siem Reap tomorrow. Just like with all transitions, there are a lot of mixed emotions- excitement, sadness, nostalgia, anticipation, uncertainty, I could keep going forever. To be honest, I've had a hard time working out my own feelings about this whole situation. I want to share them with you, I do. But my attempt to put it all into words has not been successful thus far. Since such is the case, I will simply update you on my life and hope that within the next few days I can sort out my mind a bit.

Living with a family is still going well. My host mom's sister-in-law moved in with her baby who is the absolute cutest thing I've ever seen. (Sorry if such a claim offends anyone). She laughs every time she sees me and she even knows how to greet- she puts her little hands together and leans forward. I tried to record it but she decided to be camera shy so maybe I'll get in another attempt before tomorrow morning. Panna, the little girl, has been studying for a Spelling Bee so dinner usually consists of a lot of us giving her words and her guessing random letters pretending to spell. Talk about patience- now I know why I decided to give up that dream of being a teacher.

Grandma and I still communicate through a dictionary, limiting our sentences to a few words. We aren't always successful and sometimes spend ten minutes scanning the dictionary, doing charades and talking around the words in a language the other one doesn't understand only to deem it a lost cause. Those instances always end in a shrug and a huge smile from both of us, which bring me about as much joy as does actually figuring out what she is trying to tell me. Last night my host mom said that I was leaving too soon. She said that they had finally figured out what I like- ain't that the truth! (You can only sneak the fried rice they give you for breakfast into your lunch container so many times before you get caught. And I'm ready to eat meat that I know what animal it came from and which parts of it are supposed to be edible.) But new volunteers will take my place and unpack their stuff in the room I've inhabited a mere day after my bus pulls out of Phnom Penh. Then the family will have a whole new set of dietary preferences to get used to. You don't get long to move on around here.

I finished up my big project at work- a Training Program for the Emergency Foster Care Families. Project number 2 (A Foster Care Crises Manual) was finished up today. I think that's enough to deem this a success, by Cambodian standards anyways. Work that I could have and would have been expected to complete in 3, maybe 4 weeks at home, took up 8 and my boss was thrilled about it. I guess I'm just too used to the high-achieving and result-driven American society. The time I didn't spend working on my projects, I was invited to join my team at meetings and training sessions and family visits. It was great to see the behind-the-scenes planning that goes into all of their work and then see it all put into action. I could have never asked for a more fitting placement that allowed me to make a number of networking connections and experience so many incredible things.

Ava Michelle (my travel buddy) returned to America two weeks ago. It has definitely been different without someone to share my room or talk about the goings-on back home or trade inside jokes about the past 4 months. But the time to reflect, or try to reflect, on everything has been nice. Plus I am excited travel alone. It will be a new challenge navigating and exploring Siem Reap on my own, and I am all for a challenge (sorry, Mom). Maybe spending some time in such a reverent place (when you get away from all the tourists) will lead to a better blog post within the next couple days...