Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Getting Around Town: Surviving and Thriving part 1

So I thought I would switch it up a bit. Although I have loved my time here in Cambodia, most of the best moments are silly little things that mean nothing to anyone but me. Instead, I figured I could use this opportunity to enlighten you on how to survive and thrive in Cambodian culture. Edition one will obviously be transportation... IN GENERAL: - A "moto" is the shortened term for motor bike - A tuk-tuk is basically a carriage pulled by a moto - Tuk-tuks cost about twice as much as a moto but you can share them with 3-5 other people (depending on how much you like them). - Honking is rarely vicious. The horn is used to tell a car to scoot over so you can pass, or let a smaller vehicle know you are coming up on them so they don't accidentally swerve in front of you, or sometimes just to say hi. It is more strange to not hear a horn than it is to hear one. - Traffic laws don't really exist. Technically, you drive on the right side of the road but if the left side seems more convenient then go for it! It is not unusual to have 6 lanes of traffic- 2 going the same direction as you, 2 coming at you, and 1 crossing each way in front of you (Sorry if that doesn't make sense). You just do what you gotta do to get where you gotta get. BEFORE TRAVELING: - If possible, get a Cambodian to help you get a tuk-tuk or moto- they can explain in Khmer plus locals get a much better deal (for everything). - Find and keep with you a bilingual map (both in Khmer and English)- thankfully, pointing is universal. - Allow 10 extra minutes for explaining to the tuk-tuk or moto driver where you want to go- they will probably have to consult at least 2 other people before even pretending they are familiar with your intended destination. - Give yourself another 5 minutes for when the driver gets lost and has to back track or stop and ask for more directions. - Don't pay what they ask for initially- it's usually about $.50-$1 cheaper than what they say. If you're patient, a lot of times they will give in before you will. EN ROUTE: - If you are in a tuk-tuk, just sit back and relax. Sit on the seat facing backwards to avoid the dust if possible. - Motos are a different story... - Be alert but not too alert: it is absolutely necessary to keep your arms and knees as close to the moto as possible to avoid getting knicked by passing vehicles, and avoid the exhaust pipe by your feet. It also helps to pay attention to where you are so when the driver almost misses the road, you can catch it before he has to turn around and face oncoming traffic. - Enjoy the ride. There are some great sights to be seen on Cambodia roads such as oxen crossing city streets, motos hauling absolutely anything (the most impressive I've seen is a guy with a couch and an oversized chair), and shops that might be fun to visit later. Plus, focusing on other things keeps your mind from thinking up all the terrible scenarios that could happen in such crazy traffic. - Practice your balance: it's awkward (and probably not encouraged) to clutch the wait of the Cambodian male drivers and some of the motos don't have a handle behind the seat. Anyways, the more relaxed you are on a moto, the more legit you seem. - Avoid skirts... until you are comfortable enough to side-saddle. But even then, avoid skirts. ONCE YOU ARRIVE IN TACT: - Always exit from the left side to avoid getting what they call a "Cambodian tattoo" - aka a burn from the exhaust pipe. - Try to pay with exact change- there are many times when drivers conveniently don't have change on them... WALKING: - It's always easier to depend on your own feet to get you from point A to point B. It will definitely take longer but the exercise is nice and you can avoid language barriers. - Prepared to be offered a tuk-tuk or moto at least once every 2-3 minutes. Just shake your head and smile. They will usually give you even bigger smiles in return- I've never seen people so happy to be rejected. - Stay hydrated... it gets hot here. - When crossing the street, be brave but cautious. The drivers are crazy but they do slow down for pedestrians so just be ready to weave and run until you make it safely to the other side. - Watch out for dogs. Most are nice and the others might only have a fierce bark but I'm not going to be the one to find out. - Figure out a way to pass the time. The streets of Phnom Penh aren't exactly pedestrian friendly so you may have to take the long way around sometimes. A fun game I play is trying to see how many people I can make smile on each trip- my record is 18. And as our host mom says every time we leave the house... "Good luck!"

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